October is always an anticipated time of the year in Tuscany. With October comes the finishing of the harvest and the grapes beginning their journey through fermentation; the wine is being born. The weather begins to change and the temperature begins to cool, fall has arrived. In the hills throughout the Maremma the hunters are getting ready for another winter of successful cinghiale hunts, the prized wild boar that make up one of the regions signature dishes.
In the wine professionals world it is an exciting time as well. The Northern Hemisphere is busy at their harvests, and there is a lot to report about, no matter where you are. In restaurants Sommeliers are beginning to prepare for the holiday season, and with the change of the season and the weather growing cooler, the transition of the wine menu takes shape. For myself, I always love October because Wine Spectator, the most circulated wine periodical in the U.S., always releases its annual report on Italy. It is easy to assume that this is often one of my favorite reports of the year. And not to disappoint, the October 31, 2010 issue’s cover story for Wine Spectator was ‘Exploring Italy.’
This year’s report was especially significant because it was the dawn of the end of an era and the beginning of a new period for the magazine. James Suckling was one of the top tasters for Wine Spectator having worked with the company for nearly 30 years. He covered Italy for the magazine, as well as Bordeaux and Port. This issue on ‘Exploring Italy’ would be his last. Replacing him for Italian ratings is Bruce Sanderson, Senior Editor and Tasting Director, and so the country has been left in the hands of a very capable nose. I have talked with Bruce, and he has already begun to report on some of the Italian wines, and I am looking forward to his report on the new 2006 Brunello di Montalcino vintage which has just been released to the market.
And so we proceed into this magazine issue, and arrive at the feature, Italy. It begins with the charming little town of Merano, in the far reaches of the North, Alto Adige. A wonderful resort town that is rich with quality wines. The article highlights places to see, locations to stay, and spots to taste. The issue also covers a legend from Piedmont, also in the North, Aldo Conterno. As you read the article you really get the feeling as though you are meeting the man yourself, learning his history and the history of his famous properties. If you like to cook, or even just eat Italian, then the piece on food will whet your appetite. Join Michael Chiarello, of the immensely popular new Bottega in Yountville, in his St. Helena home for a 4 course menu prepared with Italian tradition and Californian innovation. Each course has a recommended pairing which will only enhance the experience.
This leads us to the crown jewel of the Italian cover story, the heart of the Italian wine movement and the culmination of a great taster’s career with a great company, James Suckling’s article on Tuscany. ‘Tuscany Scores Twice’ is a piece focused on the success of the 2006 and 2007 vintages throughout the region, both of which should be readily available for consumers. Having tasted many examples of both vintages from a number of producers I do highly agree with the synopsis made by Suckling. I think famed Tuscan Winemaker Carlo Ferrini summed it up best, saying the 2006’s are lead by the cooler regions with Sangiovese as the star, where the 2007’s are full of fruit and ripe tannins, favoring international grapes and the warmer regions like Maremma and Bolgheri. Other recent vintages are discussed and noted that due to some rains around harvest the wines did not develop the same quality as 2006 or 2007. The best bet is to stick with these two years when buying. Look forward to individual recent vintage reports for Bolgheri/Maremma, Montalcino, Chianti Classico, and Montepulciano in the upcoming weeks.
Mr. Suckling keys in on the Bolgheri Maremma region as well in his report. Of course Bolgheri has many famous houses, including Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, but the region is growing fast with a lot of smaller names making big wines. Both the Ornellaia (Cabernet Sauvignon based) and the Masseto (100% Merlot) from Tenuta dell’Ornellaia earned a classic rating of 97 Points. Look further south towards Suvereto and Grosseto and you will be in the frontier of Tuscan winemaking, the Maremma. Many houses here are still mostly unknown out of the region, a shame when you taste and realize the quality that is beginning to be consistently turned out. Sangiovese is still the king, especially in the newly appointed D.O.C.G. area of Morellino di Scansano, but international varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah are some of the hot new kids on the block. Don’t pass up the new craze sweeping through the Maremma these days though, high quality white wine. Vermentino has quickly risen to become the known as the best white wine in all of Tuscany. No longer should Tuscan white wines be looked over, as Vermentino’s qualities of dry, crisp acidity and citrus laced mineral flavors are a perfect pair for the abundance of seafood dishes along the coast. I recommend trying one with your next Insalata di Mare.
The two top rated wines of the report on Italy both received a classic score of 98 Points. One is a Sangiovese, the other a Cabernet Sauvignon. The traditional versus the Modern. Uccelliera is a well known and highly respected producer in the Montalcino region. Their Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 has “…dried dark fruits, this is powerful on the palate, with masses of fruit. Balanced and fabulous.”-JS. Also the Castello dei Rampolla Toscano d’Alceo 2006 received the top honors. A pure Cabernet bottling comprised from grapes grown exclusively in the Chianti Classico region. “Showing beautiful aromas and flavors of currant, toasty oak, tobacco and licorice.”-JS.
If you missed this piece the first time around last fall, I highly recommend taking the opportunity to read the articles as they are enlightening and informative. As I always think it Wine Spectator is a great resource for referencing great wines and seeking out not only the well known consistent houses, but also for discovering and showcasing the new people making great strides. Here is to good wines and great lives, Salute!
JNM
For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.
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