Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri USA 2011 Preview

Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri Tasting USA Preview

San Francisco, New York, Chicago

16-2-2011, 18-2-2011, 22-2-2011

The Gambero Rosso is one of the biggest agencies for food and wine in Italy.  They have a long standing history and have a reputation for their consistent reviews of all things.  While VinItaly is by far the biggest event of the year for Italian wines, events like SensofWine by Luca Maroni and the Tre Bicchieri tastings by Gambero Rosso are a close second.

Each year the Gambero Rosso releases its book rating many of the wineries in Italy.  Their ratings I have found are always fair and appropriate, and their consistency is something that is always, as a wine professional, is respected around the world.  The rating scale is done in glasses, thus the Tre Bicchieri (3 Glasses) is the highest award given each year.  On average let’s say about 400 or so wines achieve this level.  In November the book is released and the wines earning the highest praise are showcased for those invited within the industry in Italy. 

In the early spring the Gambero Rosso takes it show on the road, and brings the event to the United States.  Last year, 2010, I was fortunate to be invited and attended the event for the first time.  To sum it up in short, it is the highest concentration of top class Italian wines showcased in the United States each year.  Not every estate that achieves this acclaim does attend, and the houses represented do vary a bit from location to location as I do understand.  For instance In San Francisco I know the likes of Biondi-Santi of Montalcino and Tenuta dell’Ornellaia are not attending although both have Tre Bicchieri wines this issue. 

For this year the event in SF is being held Wednesday February 16^th at the Fort Mason center in the Marina.  Sorry but it is not a public event and you must be invited by the Gambero Rosso or as a guest of someone who is invited.  The event then travels to New York City on the 18^th of February, and finishes in Chicago on the 22^nd. 

My plan for an event of this nature is simple, be prepared upon arrival.  All of the wines are of a high quality, and it is impossible to taste all of them in the 6 hours of the event.  I will divide the wineries into regions and wine styles (white, red, sparkling, sweet) and then decide which wines are the most important and seek those out.  For instance last year I was able to taste Antinori’s Tignanello, and then turn around and taste Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia.  I will of course review my notes from last year to revisit estates that are in attendance to confirm initial impressions.  Also of top priority is to experience wines that I have not had before, like the Antinori Solaia, which is a ‘Supertuscan’ wine based on Cabernet Sauvignon.

Even if you do not have the opportunity to attend it is recommended to look into the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri guide to discover the best Italian wines on the market every year.  I find it to be one of the best resources available for finding Italian wines each year.  I look forward to writing my post event article and sharing with you my findings.   

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.  Salute!

Recipe of the Week 30-1-2011

Crostini Part 2


Crostini are the typical Tuscan starter. Roasted unsalted bread slices are covered with different sauces. You probably know the “Bruschetta,” the bread slice with the diced tomatoes, olive oil, salt and, if you want garlic. Try other recipes… Serve always 3 different pieces per person, because it should be a starter. If you want, and I like that many times, serve more pieces and make a dinner or lunch out of them…

Crostinis with Mushrooms
 INGREDIENTS 
 ½ cup olive oil

• 1 chopped clove of garlic

• 1 Tablespoon freshly chopped parsley

• 2-3 cups of finely chopped fresh mushrooms

• Black pepper or 1 chili pepper

• loaf of Italian bread, cut into diagonal slices and toasted


1. fry garlic, parsley and chili pepper slowly in Olive oil. When they are done after appr. 10 minutes,

2. add mushrooms and slowly simmer till all liquid is evaporated.

3. Add salt to taste

4. spread on toasted bread slices and serve them hot


You can also make more of this and preserve it for a later date. Put the rest of the mushrooms in a glass and cover it with olive oil. If you keep it in the fridge, it will keep one week. You can use it for other crostini, but also as a quick sauce for a nice pasta.

Crostini with Radicchio and Goat cheese

Ingredients


• 1 Head Radicchio Treviso Lettuce (the long one)

• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped

• 5 Tablespoons Olive Oil

• 1/2 Cup Balsamic Cream (the thick Balsamico, that runs like a cream)

• 1 French bread, Sliced 1/2 Inch Thick

• 1 (6 Ounce) fresh Log Goat Cheese At Room Temperature (or gorgonzola, mozzarella or a slice of pecorino)


1. Trim the radicchio and slice thinly.

2. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and cook the garlic until golden brown over medium heat until softened, about 8 minutes.

3. Add balsamico cream, reduce the heat to a simmer, and continue to cook until all liquid evaporates, about 15 minutes. Allow to cool till it is lukewarm

4. Slice the bread, put it in the oven or toaster until golden brown (bread should be dry inside!)

5. Spread the goat cheese on the bread (or the gorgonzola or the mozzarella)

6. Put a spoon full of lukewarm radicchio on to the cheese


Crostini with Mozzarella and Anchovies

Ingredients

• 1 Mozzarella di buffalo

• A few spoons of very good extra vergin olive oil

• 1 tomatoe finely sliced

• Fresh basil leaves (or a few sprinkle of oregano)

• Anchovies (the ones in the glass)

• French bread or real Tuscan unsalted bread


1. Slice Mozarella into this slices

2. Slice the tomatoe in thin slices

3. Toast bread slices in oven or toaster (bread should be dry)

4. Put a few drops of olive oil on each slice of bread, then one slice of tomatoe, a little salt, one basil leaf, one slice of mozzarella and on top one Anchovies.

5. Use toothpicks to keep everything in place

Buon Appetito!

Azienda Agricola Forestale Rigoloccio

Azienda Agricola Forestale Rigoloccio

Alberto Abati and Ezio Puggelli

Gavorrano (Grosseto) Maremma

The first winery in the Maremma I had the pleasure to visit and taste their wines, and was it a treat.  The winery itself is fairly new, the beginning of the vineyards being chosen and crafted in 2002.  The aim was to make good quality wines on the mold of the ‘Supertuscan’ model so well perfected throughout the coastal stretches of Tuscany for the previous 3 decades.  The boldest of the moves was the selection of the varietals, mainly the decision to omit Sangiovese from the 10 Ha of vines planted.  Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, and Alicante (we know it as Grenache) round out the reds, and Chardonnay and Fiano for the whites.  The cellar and the production areas are state of the art and kept in top form. 

The vineyard is a breathtaking site, with views down to the coast and across to the island of Elba, and perfectly managed.  Row after row looked very healthy and the vines showed great vigor.  I was happy to learn that the Alicante leaves turn a vibrant bright red during the fall, which definitely set them apart from the rest.  It was such a pleasure to meet and taste with the two winemakers, Ezio and Alberto, both articulate and charming gentlemen.  Here are my notes on the wines we went through:

1: Abundantia (100% Merlot) 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT

‘Abundance.’  This is the wine that has put this winery on the map and really racked up the awards for it as well.  A true flagship wine, and for great reason, it is a fabulous wine that is very well made.  Out of the barrel I found it to be quite ripe rich and concentrated, built to be enjoyed by the international market for sure, but also refined and extremely well made.  A true representation of just how good the Merlot from this area can be.  Again, like all of the wines produced here at Rigoloccio, there is a wonderful and distinct minerality to the wines which are a true expression of the wonderful terroir the grapes are the luxury of experiencing.  2 Bicchieri 2009.  The 2008 Vintage just won 2^nd place in the National Competition Merlot of Italy.  Simply put, it is a great wine and a perfect example of how well the ‘International’ varietals can do in the Magical Maremman Climate.  It was actually the last wine of the tasting, but it has to go 1^st due to its prestige and importance to Rigoloccio.

2: Chardonnay e Fiano 2010 Maremma Toscana IGT

A fresh wine out of the tank indeed, there was an intensity to the perfume of yellow flowers, and the fruit was ripe but not sweet or syrupy.  For me there were white pears and the beginnings of maybe ripe yellow peach or yellow apple-only time will tell!  2008 &2009 both received 2 Bicchieri from the Gambero Rosso

3: Rosato di Cabernet Franc 2010 Maremma Toscana IGT

Another fresh wine out of the tank, and it was tasty.  People that know me know I love a good Rosato (Rose’) especially in the summertime around the grill.  Obtaining from simply pressing the juice off the skins, it was the pale orange, almost onion skin color.  Peaches jumped right out on this one, as well as a touch of some soft pink flowers.  We all noted a lingering aroma of watermelon which resided in the glass.  A winner in my book, especially with some Grilled Pork or Seafood.

4: Cabernet e Alicante (Cab Fr, Cab Sauv, Alicante) 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT

Tank Sample.  The un-oaked version of this blend style that they do, a wonderfully fruity and well balanced wine.  The Alicante in the blend really does show itself, giving the fruit and earth a brambly quality to the nose and palate.  Again very ripe dark berries, but in balance and not to a syrupy effect at all.  Dark violets for a florality component as well.  I noted in my journal that there was such a freshness to the tannins in both this and the next red blend, which can be contributed to such wonderful terroir.  The wine is separately fermented and then blended for maturation and refinement.  Its freshness lends it to medium fair, but the body of the wine can definitely stand up to red meats.  2 Bicchieri in 2009 

5: ‘il Sorvegliante’ Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante, Petite Verdot 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT

The wine, ‘il Sorvegliante’-roughly ‘the watchful eye,’ is different than in past years with the addition of the ripe Petite Verdot vines.  This one definitely had ‘Supertuscan’ written all over it.  Separate fermentations then blended prior to barrel aging, which comprised about 14 months in French Barrique followed by further refinement of about 8 months in tank before bottling, which will occur sometime next March.  Very similar to the previous wine, but here two main things to note.  First, the Petite Verdot gave it a darker color and complexity.  Second, the oak influence gave another layer to the wine.  Aromas of blackberry pie or marmalade popped up with the tinge of sweet vanilla and a touch of toasty wood notes on the finish.  Also, like the previous blend, a wonderful minerality rich with hard iron earth and a bit of sand as well.  Again very round and smooth with a very long finish.   ‘il Sorvegliante’ 2 Bicchieri in 2008 & 2010

6: Cabernet Franc 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT

A new project for the winery, a 100% Cab Franc to the lineup.  The program is to do about 14 months in French Barrique followed by a few months refinement in tank prior to bottling.  I’m a big Cabernet Franc fan, and this one did not disappoint.  The fruit was dark red berries with hints of cacao beans, coffee and tinges of the bell pepper/vegetal qualities consistent in Cabernet Franc.  It was slight though due to the ripeness of the fruit.  The tannins were firm and beginning to soften and round out at its stage in the barrel.  A little more time to refine and this will be winning many awards I predict, it’s got my vote.

I hope you all enjoyed my descriptions and small dose of history of Rigoloccio as much as I enjoyed visiting and learning about the estate firsthand.  Thanks again to Ezio and Alberto, keep up the great work!  Salute!

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.  Salute!

www.rigoloccio.it

rigoloccio@gmail.com



Tenuta Rocca di Montemassi



Tenuta Rocca di MonteMassi

Roccastrada (GR) Maremma

Maremma, the new frontier of Italian wine production.  A line that comes right out of the winery pamphlet which I think is very fitting.  The Tenuta is one that has a longer history than some of its neighbors, but when you really talk about the estate, you talk about a very big famous player, the Zonin Family.  Even if you do not recognize the name, trust me, you would recognize the product.  They currently own and operate 9 estates, including Barboursville Vineyards in Virginia.  It’s the famous estate that lies in between Monticello and Montpelier (Thomas Jefferson and James Madison) and has been making some top flight wines for over a decade now.  I personally am going to seek some out when I get back stateside, as California does not get much influx of Virginian wines. 

Now the Rocca di MonteMassi estate is a large one, especially compared with many in the Maremma area, as their vineyards cover an area of some 160 Hectares.  Over half of that is Sangiovese, the lifeblood of Tuscany, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Vermentino and Viognier.  The great aspect of this estate that sets it apart most wineries, including those in the U.S., is its acknowledgement of history.  The Museum of Rural Civilization, an on-site museum, is one that visitors get to take a tour of during their visit.  Over 3,000 pieces of artifacts covering not only wine production, but rural agricultural living as it has been for quite some time.  It reminded me a bit of the Rubicon estate in Rutherford, with history and wine going hand in hand.  Remember that Italy up until about 50 years ago was still very rural in most areas, and in many of the areas away from large metropolitan cities it still is.  Maremma, in fact, up until the 1930’s was a vast expanse of marshlands until being drained to promote agriculture.  Hard work and farming still dictates daily life.  We talk about hand picking grapes to produce a top tier wine; in the Southern Maremma hand picking grapes is more so just the normal way that things are done.  With all that said though, this facility did have some of the same positive echoes of a facility out of Napa or Sonoma, things like a beautiful barrel room and a vast space for their high tech tank area.

1) ‘Calasole’ Vermentino 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT

Like I have said this is a grape to really watch out for, it’s making a lot of impact in this area for the whites and is one that should definitely be sparking intrigue in the states.  A light bright wine with a pale straw color.  Ripe fruit flavors, fresh yellow peach and fresh pineapple, hints of white flowers and a light sandy minerality-coastal influence like.  The finish is dry and racy with lingering key lime notes.

2) ‘Astraio’ Viognier 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT

A new wine for the estate, and a unique addition to the vineyard and the lineup as well.  Viognier is a good mix up wine for the Chardonnay drinker.  This one was lighter than I would expect from the varietal, but I will contribute that simply to my familiarity to such robust styles from California and Northern Rhone.  This had much more of the coastal influence qualities, keeping the ripeness and the full bodied aspects in check a bit.  A pale straw yellow color, again light bright and youthful.  The intensity on this wine was mellow and fruit forward, mainly yellow peaches and fresh apricots with just that familiar hint of florality on the back end.  The mouthfeel was there for a Viognier, a bit fuller and richer with a warmer finish; Viognier usually with be a bit higher on the alcohol, and I noted a lingering hint of ginger root or ginger beer on the finish.

3) ‘Le Focaie’ Sangiovese 2009 Maremma Toscana IGT

This is a 100% Sangiovese wine.  This is definitely a wine that can be found in the states, I have had in on a wine menu in Sacramento and so I know it is available.  I would start at Bevmo, and maybe Totalwines as well.  Should be fairly inexpensive and is one that is meant to be enjoyed in its youth.  A pale ruby red color, star bright, with an overall softness to its appearance.  Tart red cherries and some strawberry jam aromas are complimented by mellow oak spices like clove and some cinnamon stick.  Part of this wine (50%) does see about 5 months of large Slovenian oak cask which is where these flavors are coming from.  It has a light clean body that is dry and fresh to the taste, with bright acidity and light tannins with lingering earthy flavors on the finish.  A great entry level red that is versatile, one would be able to pair many different dishes with this wine and find pleasure.

4) ‘Sassabruna’ 2008 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.

Here we enter into the upper level of the estates’ wines.  In vintages before 2008, this was their top wine, but next you will get a sneak preview of their new flagship wine!  Again, as you have already seen, the wines from the Monteregio D.O.C. are Sangiovese based.  This bottling is 80% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot and 10% Syrah.  Aged for about one year in 350 L barrique, which are slightly larger than the traditional French 225 L barrique, and then allowed to refine in the bottle before release.  The larger barrels allow for less influence of oak flavor and preserve the natural fruit flavors in a wine.  This is why this wine has more complexity compared to the lightness and freshness of the ‘Le Focaie’. 

Again a bright ruby color, a bit darker than the ‘Le Focaie’ due to the Merlot and Syrah blended in, but still vibrant and youthful to the eye.  Dark cherries and red plums are accented by the barrique with a hint of vanillin, but more so there is a floral component backed up by a dark earthy woodsy tree bark tinge to the nose.  On the palate the fruits turn a bit darker towards the blueberries and same plums with the flowers and dark earth flavors staying consistent.  The same woodsy note is there with a tinge of ripe olives on the finish which is dry and long. 

5) Rocca di Montemassi 2008 Maremma Toscana IGT

The thing to remember sometimes in newer wine regions like the Maremma is that a D.O.C. wine will not always be superior to an I.G.T. wine.  For example take this wine compared to the previous ‘Sassabruna.’  Both wines are great but this wine is an experiment and does not conform to the current laws of Monteregio and so it is labeled an I.G.T. wine, one level below the D.O.C.  Remember the ‘Supertuscan’ wines of this region, many of which fit into this category of wines not confirming to D.O.C. laws currently.  This wine is a Bordeaux Ermitage wine, meaning it is a base Bordeaux blend with the very old tradition of adding a bit of syrah to the wine to beef it up a little bit.  The first vintage of this project took 4 years to research, between a collaboration of the Zonin family owners and the famous French enologist Denis Dubourdieu, who consults for some of the top Bordeaux chateau in the region. 

Daybright with a deep garnet color and a Med+ concentration, the wine is youthful on the rim with a Med+ viscosity and noticeable staining to the tears.  Aromas of Dusty black raspberries, plums, and ripe blackberries mingle with the sweet vanillin of the oak influence.  There is a noticeable dark floral quality with a strong earthy minerality and a hint of peppercorn spice in the mid-palate.  The finish is long with a silky balance which will approve with time in the bottle.  Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, and Syrah.   

Thank you to Stefano and Susanna for being such gracious hosts and sharing such a wealth of information. 

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.  Salute!

www.roccadimontemassi.it

info@roccadimontemassi.it

SensofWine 2011 Preview

SensofWine 2011 presented by Luca Maroni

Palazzo dei Congressi, Rome-Italy

Jan 29^th, 30^th 2011

SensofWine is one of the most anticipated wine events in all of Italy every year.  It rivals the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri release in that both events are set up to showcase what each considers some of the best Italian wines of the current year.  Only the VinItaly held every spring in Verona holds more prestige.  One of the best features of the SensofWine, currently in its 6^th year, is that it corresponds to a very important time for some fo the best wines in all of Italy, market release date.  Take the famed Brunello di Montalcino of Tuscany and also the Barolo-Barbaresco wines of Piedmont.  All three of these wines are, by D.O.C.G. law, not allowed to be released until January 1^st at the earliest for the newest allowed vintage.  Because of this, the SensofWine event is the first big showcasing of the wines to the public.  For that reason alone the event is exciting enough.  The best aspect of this event is a two part corresponding feature.  First of all the event is open to the public making it a great experience for anyone to be able to see top class wines and because the event is on the weekend it makes it much easier for both the public and people in the trade to visit.  An event and location that allows the attendees to escape from the outside world for some time and to unwind and decompress, to absorb all the wonderful materials on display.

Luca Maroni has built quite a reputation, not only in Italy, but Internationally as the premier authority on Italian wines.  For many people in the U.S. who may not be familiar with him I would compare his acclaim to that of a Robert M. Parker Jr.  Luca Maroni is the most influential single person in the Italian wine scene, even more so than some of the biggest names in production because of his expertise in all the regions of Italy.  He was born in Rome in 1961 and after achieving his University degree cum laude in Economics he began working with Luigi Veronelli in wine publications.  In 1990 Mr. Maroni founded his own publishing company, Lm Editions, thus creating his own magazine The Taster of Wine.  His accomplishments are endless, but the biggest I believe is his reference book, Yearbook of Italian Wines, first published in 1993 and in its 17^th edition.  It is one of the best resources on the best wines of Italy.

The event itself should be quite the showcase for some of the best Italian wines on the market this year.  For this is the 6^th year that the event will be held, and this year the site has been moved to the prestigious Palazzo dei Congressi, one of the best sites in all of Rome to hold exhibitions and events of this natural.  In addition to the main tasting floor forum there are also many new special exhibits taking place for the first time.  One of the events I personally I am looking forward to is the Tasting Tour with Luca Maroni himself.  Like in years past for the event, he is leading separate one hour tours of various wines he has selected to feature and taste the public on.  The event does not just feature wine though, but food as well.  Many top purveyors will be in attendance as well, offering some of their top products in congruence with the wines.  To take a break from all the decadent offerings on display at the event this year enjoy a bit of art.  SensofArt is another aspect of the event which gives attendees the chance to unwind and stimulate their visual senses in addition to their aromatic and taste sensations.  Included this year is a photo exhibit by Vittorio Storaro titled ‘Vinalia.’

Overall the event is shaping up to be the best to date.  The personal anticipation is building by the day, and I am patiently waiting the arrival of this Saturday.  I would encourage all who are reading this that have the opportunity to visit the event for at least on of the dates, either the 29^th or the 30^th so that you can experience one of the best tastings put on in all of Italy each year.  The cost is fair at 25 Euro per person per day and I am positive that it will more than pay for itself by the end of the day.  I look forward seeing you there, Salute!

http://www.lucamaroni.it/

  

Recipe of the Week 23-1-2011

Crostini Part 1


Crostini are the typical Tuscan starter. Roasted unsalted bread slices are covered with different sauces. You probably know the “Bruschetta,” the bread slice with the diced tomatoes, olive oil, salt and, if you want garlic. Try other recipes… Serve always 3 different pieces per person, because it should be a starter. If you want, and I like that many times, serve more pieces and make a dinner or lunch out of them…



Crostini con Pomodoro


I love this very traditional crostino as a starter especially if I am serving a heavy meat dish afterwards, because it is light or in the summertime, when tomatoes are really ripe and taste delicious.

Ingredients



• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 cup finely chopped ripe tomatoes

• 1 handful of finely shopped fresh basil leaves (or if not handy ½ spoon of oregano)

• French bread (better: unsalted Tuscan bread)





1. Put olive oil, tomatoes, basil leaves together in one bowl and toss it gentle, salt to taste.

2. Slice the bread and brown it in the oven until it is golden brown and pretty dry.

3. Spread the tomatoes on the bread and serve immediately. (the tomatoes should not stand for long, because they go soft)



Crostini con Gorgonzola e Salsiccia


A dish that is easy and always a crowd pleaser



Ingredients


• 1 cup of gorgonzola (can also be Mozzarella or ½ cup of parmesan)

• 2 fresh sausages like the italian salsiccia

• Black pepper

• loaf of Italian bread, cut into diagonal slices and toasted





1. put everything together in a blender

2. spread on toasted bread slices and grill it till sausage is cooked and cheese melting



Crostini al Fegato


I'll warn you first off that not everyone likes liver but these crostini are quite good. I wasn't too fond of trying them when I first came to Tuscany, but they are a traditional dish found at all local restaurants serving authentic Tuscan food. And they are really good.

Makes: 2 cups (30 servings)



Ingredients


• extra-virgin olive oil

• ½ medium onion, chopped

• 1 lb. chicken livers

• 1 celery stalk, chopped

• 1 carrot, chopped

• 1 tsp parsley, chopped

• 1 Tbsp tomato concentrate, diluted in 1 Tbsp water

• salt and pepper

• 1 tsp capers

• loaf of Italian bread, cut into diagonal slices and toasted slightly





1. Cover bottom of medium saucepan with olive oil. Add onion and cook until translucent. Add clean liver pieces and cook at high heat for a few minutes. Once the liver is colored, lower heat to medium and add the celery, carrot, parsley and tomato concentrate (with water).

2. Continuing cooking at medium heat until there is no more blood visible. Remove from heat and add salt and pepper to taste.

3. Let cool. Once almost cold, place everything into blender, adding the capers at this point, and blend well.

4. Spread the patè on the toasted bread slices and serve.



I hope that you enjoy these first 3 ideas for a great little starters for your next dinner. More ideas to come next week with our sequel to Crostini recipes!

Conti di San Bonifacio

Conti di San Bonifacio

Gavorrano (GR) Maremma

Let me begin by saying what a wonderful way to spend a sunny Friday by visiting the estate house and being able to enjoy the views from the atop the hill.  Also, a big thank you to Amanda Elliott for being such a gracious host with great wines and an even greater wealth of information.  Conti di San Bonifacio is a small, relatively new Azienda with loads of charm.  The estate is comprised of 7 Hectares (1 Ha=2.47 acres) which is planted to Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah.  Sorry Vino Bianco lovers, no white wine to find here.  Located in Gavorrano proper, this is a region encompassed by a classified growing area that will be popping up a lot as I continue my time in the Maremma-Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.  The main thing to know here in the short term is that the majority of these wines are comprised with Sangiovese.  I will discuss in more depth about this growing area as we progress.  Now let’s talk wine!

1)Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. 2007

This was the 1^st wine made by the estate, starting with the 2006 vintage.  The tasting done on the 5^th was all from the 2007 vintage, a good one for Maremma and Tuscany as a whole.  I am told the 2008’s will be even better.  Again remember here Sangiovese is king, 85%, with 10% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Franc.  A day bright wine with the proper ruby garnet with a garnet core.  A soft rim variation with the faintest of stained tears.  Tart red cherry and red plums with some fresh blueberry on the finish.  The quality I love, that I found in all the wines here, is a sense of minerality.  Warm dry earthy qualities of clay and rocks were very present, which is what comprises the soil of the vineyard, go figure.  Also a bit of the woodsy herb stick quality I tend to find in most good Sangiovese based wines from Tuscany.  12 months in Barrique followed by 12 months in the bottle prior to release. 

2) Docet (Dough-chet) 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (50% Cab Franc, 50% Cab Sauvignon)

Again, let us remember that while the region of Maremma is well known for Sangiovese wines, like Mo-Mo-Mo (Monteregio, Morellino, and Montecucco); we are also in ‘Supertuscan’ territory.  The Docet definitely fits into that mold.  I especially liked this wine, well made with great depth of flavor, the two grapes were in harmony throughout and one did not overpower, but simply added complexity to the other.  Also 12 months in Barrique and 12 months in the bottle for refining. 

Day bright with a rich garnet color and a medium plus concentration.  The wine was clear and had only a minor rim variation.  Also a medium amount of staining to the tears which showed a ‘healthy’ viscosity, somewhat reminiscent of a California wine.  Red currants and dark cherries popped right up, as well as violet flowers and pencil shavings, you know, like back from cranking the communal sharpener in the classroom.  Dark cool earth components with some licorice hints and dark chocolate on the finish.  I really did enjoy this wine, probably my favorite, and would love to revisit down the road to see how complex it becomes.

3) Sustinet (Sus-ti-net) 2007 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (100% Syrah)

Maremma is slowly but surely growing quite the reputation for the Syrah grape, and for good reason.  This is the 1^st one I have tasted on this side of the pond.  A good friend and fellow Sommelier Paul Marsh of The Firehouse in Sacramento asked me recently about tasting any, and I am glad to report Paul that this one excelled.  It took a moment for it to wake up in the glass, as refined youthful Syrah tends to do, but when it did it was all good.  I noticed that the color and concentration was not as deep as many California and Australian versions, which is not a bad thing.  Remember the color and concentration comes from skin contact and does not determine the quality of a wine.  The fruits were dark and red and brambly, wild berries still on the bush with a little summer dust ascent to them.  With some time the leather and chocolate notes emerged over a very smooth rich velvety palate.  Full bodied but again with great harmony and the tannins were soft.  12 months Barrique and 12 months refining in the bottle.

For a young winery the team here is doing great work and I look forward to the next opportunity to taste the wines from Conti di San Bonifacio, hopefully in the US where distribution is beginning to take hold.  Keep up the good work and thank you again for such a lovely visit, it’s nothing like tasting good wine while looking out over a small sea of vines towards the beautiful Tuscan coast.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.  Salute!



www.disanbonifacio.com

info@disanbonifacio.com

Azienda Agricola Serraiola

Serraiola Winery

Monterotondo Marittimo (GR)

Out in the Maremman countryside, a frontier of sorts, where you can still find the traditional ‘butteri’ cowboys of the region.  A Wild West type place where jobs are hard and life is satisfying; this is where you will find the Serraiola Winery.  A simple estate with a feel of pure functionality.  The microclimate is distinct in that they are right along the Corneo River and thus have a unique mix of the metal rich soils combined with softer elements deposited from the river over the many years.  The owner and winemaker, Fiorella Lenzi, has a warm personality that shows a quiet confidence in her project.  The estate has been in the family for many years and they have been producing wines for longer than most in the area.  Of course Sangiovese and Vermentino are produced, but also an interesting mix of international grapes. 

1) Vermentino 2009 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.

A youthful wine with a light straw yellow color.  The nose is mellow and focused on the grassy notes with hints to the sandy influence in the soil.  Green apple, winter melon fruit on the finish.  A straight forward versatile white wine.

2) ‘Violina’ 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T. (Chard-Sauv. Blanc-Traminer)

Again a youthful looking white, starbright, with a light straw yellow color with green hues towards the edges.  The nose is a bit more intense with dry grass, green herbs and a touch of natural smoky elements.  A fruity palate of ripe peach and sweet meyer lemon supported by firm acidity on a moderately long rounded finish.  Also a sandy note to the minerality enhanced by a stronger rocky element. 

3) ‘Serrabacio’ 2009 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.  (Marsanne-Roussanne)

 Surprised, well so was I to see these grapes in this region.  Both grapes are most common in the Rhone Valley in France, Marsanne from the North only and Roussanne from both the North and South.  Almost all the white wines from the Northern Rhone, except Condrieu, are going to be comprised of this blend.  Also becoming more common in warm climates in California and Australia, to a lesser extent.  Light golden color with a medium concentration and a high viscosity (14% abv).  Yellow apples figs and quince fruits with some almond skin and marzipan.  A ripe warm palate with moderate acidity to balance the alcohol on the finish.  This wine does see barrique influence with battonage.

4) ‘Cervone’ 2009 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C.  (Sangiovese)

Light bright and youthful with a pale garnet color and light concentration.  The berry fruits are ripe and a touch dark, with tinges of herbs and a soft earthiness.  A light bodied red that is soft and easy to drink.

5) ‘Lentisco’ 2008 Monteregio di Massa Marittima D.O.C. (Sangiovese)

Daybright garnet color with a medium concentration and a soft rim variation forming.  The tears have a medium viscosity and show no staining.  An earthy nose here, dark cool earth with a mossy tinge and red berries fruits lightly smoked.  There are red cherries and strawberries on the palate that have a warm ripe quality, like cooked fruit (jammy), on a dry palate with a medium finish and tinges of green herbs on the edges.  The tannins and acids are soft and in balance here.  One year in barrique, and in bottle since 2-2010.

6) Shiraz 2008 Maremma Toscana I.G.T.

Pure Syrah/Shiraz with a ruby red color wit h Med+ concentration and tears that show staining on Med+ viscosity.  Baked cherries and dried red fruits with hints of black violets and compacted dark earth.  A warm nose and a warm dry finish with firm tannins.  It went well with a little fatty meat.  One year in barrique.

7) ‘Campo Montecristo’ Maremma Toscana I.G.T. 2008 & 2007 (Merlot)

A bright wine with a deep garnet color strong in concentration.  A highly aromatic nose which is strongly influenced by the barrique aging.  Plums and blueberries with vanillin.  Currants and dark dry earth wake up on the palate which is long and warm.  As the wine warmed in my glass more of the secondary flavors emerged.  The 2008 needs time to harmonize.

The 2007 was still youthful but the extra year had given it more integrated aromas and had softened the influence of the oak.  More floral and earth notes, as well as a peppery spice and the tobacco leaf and subtle cedar notes from the softened oak on the back end.

I found the wines here to be straightforward and enjoyable.  They were all true to their terroir, and the house style overall was one that emphasized the earthy flavors inherent in their site.  Thank you again to Fiorella for sharing with me her cellar and her wines. 

  For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.  Salute!

http://www.serraiola.it/

Sangiovese in full ripeness

Exploring Italy with Wine Spectator

October is always an anticipated time of the year in Tuscany.  With October comes the finishing of the harvest and the grapes beginning their journey through fermentation; the wine is being born.  The weather begins to change and the temperature begins to cool, fall has arrived.  In the hills throughout the Maremma the hunters are getting ready for another winter of successful cinghiale hunts, the prized wild boar that make up one of the regions signature dishes. 

In the wine professionals world it is an exciting time as well.  The Northern Hemisphere is busy at their harvests, and there is a lot to report about, no matter where you are.  In restaurants Sommeliers are beginning to prepare for the holiday season, and with the change of the season and the weather growing cooler, the transition of the wine menu takes shape.  For myself, I always love October because Wine Spectator, the most circulated wine periodical in the U.S., always releases its annual report on Italy.  It is easy to assume that this is often one of my favorite reports of the year.  And not to disappoint, the October 31, 2010 issue’s cover story for Wine Spectator was ‘Exploring Italy.’ 

This year’s report was especially significant because it was the dawn of the end of an era and the beginning of a new period for the magazine.  James Suckling was one of the top tasters for Wine Spectator having worked with the company for nearly 30 years.  He covered Italy for the magazine, as well as Bordeaux and Port.  This issue on ‘Exploring Italy’ would be his last.  Replacing him for Italian ratings is Bruce Sanderson, Senior Editor and Tasting Director, and so the country has been left in the hands of a very capable nose.  I have talked with Bruce, and he has already begun to report on some of the Italian wines, and I am looking forward to his report on the new 2006 Brunello di Montalcino vintage which has just been released to the market.

And so we proceed into this magazine issue, and arrive at the feature, Italy.  It begins with the charming little town of Merano, in the far reaches of the North, Alto Adige.  A wonderful resort town that is rich with quality wines.  The article highlights places to see, locations to stay, and spots to taste.  The issue also covers a legend from Piedmont, also in the North, Aldo Conterno.  As you read the article you really get the feeling as though you are meeting the man yourself, learning his history and the history of his famous properties.  If you like to cook, or even just eat Italian, then the piece on food will whet your appetite.  Join Michael Chiarello, of the immensely popular new Bottega in Yountville, in his St. Helena home for a 4 course menu prepared with Italian tradition and Californian innovation.  Each course has a recommended pairing which will only enhance the experience.

This leads us to the crown jewel of the Italian cover story, the heart of the Italian wine movement and the culmination of a great taster’s career with a great company, James Suckling’s article on Tuscany.  ‘Tuscany Scores Twice’ is a piece focused on the success of the 2006 and 2007 vintages throughout the region, both of which should be readily available for consumers.  Having tasted many examples of both vintages from a number of producers I do highly agree with the synopsis made by Suckling.  I think famed Tuscan Winemaker Carlo Ferrini summed it up best, saying the 2006’s are lead by the cooler regions with Sangiovese as the star, where the 2007’s are full of fruit and ripe tannins, favoring international grapes and the warmer regions like Maremma and Bolgheri.  Other recent vintages are discussed and noted that due to some rains around harvest the wines did not develop the same quality as 2006 or 2007.  The best bet is to stick with these two years when buying.  Look forward to individual recent vintage reports for Bolgheri/Maremma, Montalcino, Chianti Classico, and Montepulciano in the upcoming weeks. 

Mr. Suckling keys in on the Bolgheri Maremma region as well in his report.  Of course Bolgheri has many famous houses, including Tenuta dell’Ornellaia, but the region is growing fast with a lot of smaller names making big wines.  Both the Ornellaia (Cabernet Sauvignon based) and the Masseto (100% Merlot) from Tenuta dell’Ornellaia earned a classic rating of 97 Points.  Look further south towards Suvereto and Grosseto and you will be in the frontier of Tuscan winemaking, the Maremma.  Many houses here are still mostly unknown out of the region, a shame when you taste and realize the quality that is beginning to be consistently turned out.  Sangiovese is still the king, especially in the newly appointed D.O.C.G. area of Morellino di Scansano, but international varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah are some of the hot new kids on the block.  Don’t pass up the new craze sweeping through the Maremma these days though, high quality white wine.  Vermentino has quickly risen to become the known as the best white wine in all of Tuscany.  No longer should Tuscan white wines be looked over, as Vermentino’s qualities of dry, crisp acidity and citrus laced mineral flavors are a perfect pair for the abundance of seafood dishes along the coast.  I recommend trying one with your next Insalata di Mare.

The two top rated wines of the report on Italy both received a classic score of 98 Points.  One is a Sangiovese, the other a Cabernet Sauvignon.  The traditional versus the Modern.  Uccelliera is a well known and highly respected producer in the Montalcino region.  Their Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 has “…dried dark fruits, this is powerful on the palate, with masses of fruit.  Balanced and fabulous.”-JS.  Also the Castello dei Rampolla Toscano d’Alceo 2006 received the top honors.  A pure Cabernet bottling comprised from grapes grown exclusively in the Chianti Classico region.  “Showing beautiful aromas and flavors of currant, toasty oak, tobacco and licorice.”-JS. 

If you missed this piece the first time around last fall, I highly recommend taking the opportunity to read the articles as they are enlightening and informative.  As I always think it Wine Spectator is a great resource for referencing great wines and seeking out not only the well known consistent houses, but also for discovering and showcasing the new people making great strides.  Here is to good wines and great lives, Salute!

JNM

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, www.maremmaevents.com to begin planning your next vacation.    

www.winespectator.com

Petra

Petra

Suvereto (Livorno)

Petra, Latin for rock, stands strong and bold like a chiseled piece of marble on the hillside where it resides in the Southern part of the Livorno Province. The estate lies within the Val di Cornia D.O.C. but the property could be considered a special microclimate all its own. Spanning across 300 Hectares, sprawled to the sea with olive groves and woodlands teaming with cinghiale, the 94 Hectares of vines are divided into parcels where the terroir is most suited for each varietal. The winery itself is state of the art, and also a state of art. Designed by famed architect Mario Botta, check out the San Francisco Modern Museum of Art, he incorporates a symbolism here that is tied perfectly with its functionality. Personally speaking, I cannot recall a more impressive facility. Everything is designed to benefit the wine first and foremost, but also with a pleasing visual ascetic.

Founded by Vittorio and his daughter Francesca Moretti, who also own and operate Bellavista in Franciacorta-Lombardy as well as Tenuta la Badiola-Castiglione della Pescaia, this was a site hand selected for its optimal terroir to begin their red wine project. The theme here is more in the ’Supertuscan’ style, emphasizing their unique placement on hillside lands near the sea. There is Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon which is planted closer to the sea on lower altitudes, as well as Sangiovese, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc higher up on the property. There is also a very small patch of old vine white varietals which go into their dessert wine, L’Angelo di San Lorenzo. All of the vineyards share a common clay dominant soil that is naturally very rocky and high in minerals. Walking through the vineyards this was very evident. Their 1st vintage was in 1997 from vines that were pre-existing, since then they have expanded to the current 94 Hectares.

Production and aging of these wines is a very technical process, overseen by consulting French enologist Pascal Chatonnet, who also consults for Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux and Vega Sicilia in Ribero del Duoro-Spain. Stainless steel is used for the base level wines fermentation, while 100 hectoliter French oak barrels are used for the top tier wines. There are two chai, or barrel rooms, one for the 1st year wines and one for the 2nd year wines-mimicking the Bordeaux style. Let us begin to explore the line of wines produced by Petra Winery…

1) ‘Ebo’ 2007 Val di Cornia Suvereto D.O.C.

91 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

Named after the ancient Etruscan settlement of the region, Ebo is a blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. For a wine that they deem entry level, around 13 Euro retail, I found it very pleasant and drinkable. Deep garnet color with a firm but clear concentration with tears that were strong and had some staining. Dark dry red fruits complimented by a dark earth quality. The palate is warm and robust, but nicely balanced and contains secondary flavors of the coastal vegetation/shrubs with tinges of coffee on the finish. Aged in seasoned Slovenian and French barrels of different sizes for 12 months, with a further 10 months in the bottle for refinements.

2) ‘Alto’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Sangiovese)

A new project for them, the 2006 being the first vintage they decided to do a pure Sangiovese wine. Definitely an experiment, as when discussing the winery as a whole I really understood that the whole project is still an experiment. I like this perspective, always learning-always progressing. This wine was ruby red in color with a firm but clear concentration with the rim beginning to fade out in color a tinge. The nose was very ripe, dark cherries and blueberries with the traditional smoky woodsy qualities of the Sangiovese varietal. The palate was plump and rich, with almost a tree sap quality to the herbal tinge, but with the natural acidity preserved enough to balance out the finish.

3) ‘Potenti’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Cabernet Sauvignon)

92 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

Potenti is the vineyard name where these grapes are being sourced, and it translates to ‘powerful.’ Well named indeed. A purple garnet color with a high concentration and very youthful appearance, the tears were firm and had noticeable staining. There was a power to this wine which was masked by its youth. Definitely needs some time in the bottle to soften, but the future looks very bright. Sweet black fruits are kissed by the French oak influence on the nose. I noted black currants and black liquorice notes on the palate, with the finish hinting towards the emergence of the floral/earthy complexities. The wine was dry and full bodied with strong tannins and balanced acidity. I’d love to revisit this one in a couple of years…I doubt many will be able to wait that long!

4) ‘Quercegobbe’ 2007 Toscana I.G.T. (Merlot)

92 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate (2006 94 Points WA)

The Quercegobbe vineyard is a small strip intermixed next to some Cabernet Sauvignon and backing right up to the woodlands on the property. It is a very special vineyard which makes a very special wine. Highly rated in 2006, and living up to its acclaim with the 2007 vintage as well. It is my belief that the 2007 is on the same path and will develop beautifully for many years to come. A dark ruby-heavy garnet color with a firm but clear concentration. The wine is intense on the nose, plump ripe plums and dark cherries bursting in the glass all set against a red flower and warm dark rocky earth component. The palate is long and strong, silky tannins caress the dry finish. There are notes of coffee and subtle peppercorn spices with notes of balsamic vinegar on the back. The wine is aged in 600 L French barrique for about 15 months, 50% new and 50% seasoned, followed by 10 months in the bottle before release.

5) ‘Petra’ 2006 Toscana I.G.T. (Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot)

2007 Vintage 94 Points Robert Parker-Wine Advocate

The flagship wine of the estate, the 2006 is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Merlot. Can anyone say ‘Supertuscan?’ While that is the general style of the house, this one really does put itself within the company of many of the big name wines of the Bolgheri D.O.C. ‘Supertuscans.’ A dark garnet color with a firm but clear concentration and tears that are also firm and showing some staining. The nose is pleasantly perfumed and intense with fruits of red currants and ripe berries in syrup and vanillin from the oak, but subtle and well integrated. The wine is intense in the mouth as well with the fruits reconfirmed and many of the secondary flavors from the nose transcending through also. Coffee and eucalyptus intermix with the dark rocky mineral rich earth notes. The wine is dry with a firm body and velvety tannins all in balance on a long dry finish. Aged for 18 months in French barrique, 80% new, followed by 18 months in the bottle for refinement.

I would like to thank Ettore Maggi for his wonderful wealth of knowledge and leading me on one of the absolute best winery tours of my life. I can only say that any trip to Tuscany should include an appointment to visit and tour this winery, it is a special piece of the region that I am sure will only continue to grow and achieve more accolades in the very near future. Find a bottle of their wine in America and get just a glimpse of what potential there is here.

For information regarding the wines of the Maremma and/or Tuscany including high class luxury wine and golf tours and holidays in the Tuscany region visit the website of the premier tour company, http://www.maremmaevents.com/ to begin planning your next vacation. Salute!

http://www.petrawine.it/